A biography of Japanese-American chef and restaurateur Niki Nakayama, from childhood to the opening of her Los Angeles Michelin-starred restaurant, n/naka. Authors Debbi Michiko Florence and Jamie Michalak use the structure of kaiseki, a traditional Japanese multi-course meal that tells a story, to highlight moments—and foods—along her journey.
Nakayama, the American-born daughter of immigrant parents, was always inspired by food, but faced challenges from her family, who wanted her to be part of the family seafood business, and from the male-dominated food industries in both the United States and Japan, which marginalized women. Throughout, Nakayama’s response was “Kuyashii!” (“I’ll show them!”). Through her determination and hard work, she does, opening n/naka to serve kaiseki that blends both her Japanese and American heritage.
The text not only tells us about key points in Nakayama’s life, but also waxes poetic in its descriptions of food, giving readers insight into how Nakayama herself may have experienced it. “The corn soup tasted of a warm, lazy day.”) Tasty illustrations by Yuko Jones add to the appeal.
Back matter includes a timeline, more about kuyashii and kaiseki, and a recipe for wonton pizza. The timeline not only mentions her appearance on the Netflix show Chef’s Table, but notes that in 2013, she married Chef Carole Iida-Nakayam, “who cooks alongside her.” While some may wish their relationship was mentioned in the main text, the fact is that their meeting came after Nakayama opened n/naka, so it doesn’t really fit in with the main arc of the story. I’m happy they noted it someplace in the book, however, so that readers (and their adults) can see how yet another queer person has made their mark in the world.
